There was a reason somebody—don’t ask me who—came up with that expressionabout “the dog days of summer.” Probably because any sensible dog realizes that heat can kill you. So, he finds a shady spot to lay down and stretch out. Preferably a place with a cooling breeze. And a bowl of cold water nearby. Sorta like both of my English setters are doing right now after running around outside barking at squirrels (a no-no), yanking on Kate’s plants (a REAL no-no), and taking care of, uh, “personal business” (a real YES-YES). Ghost, the 11-year-old veteran, has a favorite spot under a very old fold-up schoolroom seat that gets a very nice cross-breeze. It’s cool there. And private. Comfortable. The 14-month old puppy—alternately known as Bonehead and Conan The Barbarian as well as his more charitable given name of “Heart”—mostly just flops down close to wherever I happen to be standing or sitting.

Like now. He’s big and loveable and just goes with the flow. Panting like crazy the whole time. So what’s this got to do with fishing? Take a lesson from The Old Dog. Historically, the average temperature in southwest Florida during August and September is 90 degrees. That, as Yankees from the reallycold north say about winter temps, is straight-time. “Don’t include the wind-chill factor,” they’ll add, nodding sagely. Same thing down here, only it “don’t include the blazing-sunshine factor.” Puppies just love to be outside. They run around as hard and fast as they can go. They never give a second thought to stopping for a long drink of water or a brief nap in the shade. Some fishermen are the same way. They miraculously get a free Saturday from work, kids, and honey-dos so it’s on-the-water from dawn till dusk. No sunblock. No water. Maybe a sandwich. Plenty of bodily-fluid-dehydrating beer. Ouch! Old dogs, like this one, believes firmly in that line from an old Clint Eastwood movie: “A man’s got to recognize his limitations.” For instance, after watching a slide show that a dermatologist played for the Mangrove Coast Fly Fishers several years ago, I became a devout follower of The Church of SPF40 Sunblock. See, those slides showed some REALLY disgusting images of ears rotted off, lips half-carved away, and other horrifying manifestations of skin cancer. Made me a believer. And I mean RIGHT NOW, a believer!

Water? Yep. I carry several gallons aboard my Hewes Redfisher 18. And I INSIST that when the Captain drinks water, all hands on deck ALSO drink water. No soda. And definitely no beer. Yeah, I know what some of you are thinking. “Beer and boating go hand-in-hand!” Right up to the point where somebody busts an arm or leg or rib because he/she’s busted one too many bottlecaps. Then things get real interesting with lawyers and insurance companies. And friendships. Old Dogs learn a few things while avoiding speeding cars, trucks with bad brakes and other Mean Dogs. Like getting up early before it’s so blazing hot that neither man nor fish can tolerate being out. Or that staying out in the sun for 12 hours can then require another 48 hours in a hospital emergency room. Sometimes puppies learn that getting their tails run over by a drunk driver hurts. Sometimes they’re the drunk driver. And that can hurt a whole lot worse.

<; ((((((((((((((((((((((((>< Capt. Tony guides fly and light-tackle anglers from Tampa Bay to Charlotte Harbor and Pine Island Sound. He can be reached through www.tightloopsflyfishers.com or 941-496-4289.

ALEXANDRIA, VA, August 6, 2008 - Seaworthy, the newsletter from BoatU.S. that helps boaters and anglers prevent damage to their vessels, recently looked into some of the more common reasons for on-the-water boat troubles that occur mid-season. "Preventive maintenance will help you avoid the headaches and keep your crew or fishing buddies comfortable and safe," says Seaworthy Editor Bob Adriance. "So going over the boat's systems in the spring is very important. But now after a couple months of use, it's time to look at things again. A midsummer check-up will ensure you make it back to home port without a problem." Here are some midsummer maintenance tips for both power and sailboats:

• Through-hulls: Make a thorough check around any below-the-waterline hole or opening. Check all through-hulls for leaks and cycle seacocks to ensure they close properly. If it's hard to move the handle, make a note to service it next time the boat is out of the water. Any hose clamps should be tight and hose ends secure. A bilge pump cycle counter is a simple upgrade and the best early warning system that unwanted water is coming aboard.
• Engine belts: For inboard engines, look in areas near the belts checking for evidence of black dust - a sure sign that engine pulleys need to be realigned and the belt replaced. Push on the longest run of the belt - it should not deflect more than one half inch.
• Engine hoses: Squeeze coolant and fuel hoses with your hands, looking for softness, cracks or bulges. Replace any that are suspect. Wiggle the ends to ensure they are secure and inspect for any possible chafing issues in the engine compartment.
• Sterndrives: Inspect the folds in the bellows and replace if they show signs of cracking.
• Sacrificial zincs and anodes: A wasted zinc is a sure sign of trouble, possibly stray current at the dock. Ensure all zincs are no less than half gone - and replace them now if they are.
• Control cables: Look for chafe, splits or swelling of the plastic jacket - a sure sign the cable needs replacement.
• Outboard engine mounts: Smaller engines can sometimes vibrate loose, so re-tighten clamps and ensure the cut-off switch is operable.
• Hydraulic steering system and trim tabs: Ensure reservoirs are full. If you have to add fluid, there is leak that must be fixed immediately.
• Batteries and electrical system: Dead batteries are often nothing more than corroded connections - sandpaper can easily clean them up. With conventional batteries check water levels and add if necessary. Inspect cables and wiring for chafe, especially wherever they may pass through a bulkhead.
• Shorepower cable: Look for burn marks on the plug ends and the connection to the boat. Replace both the plug and receptacle immediately if you find any.
• Head: If your boat has a flushing toilet and its handle is getting hard to operate, you've likely got calcium buildup. Pour a cup of vinegar into bowl pumping only once or twice. Let it sit for one night before flushing with one-fourth cup of mineral oil.
• On deck: Old, stiff, or chafed dock lines should be replaced. Also check anchor line and chain shackles and any splices.
• Sailboats only: Look for any broken strands on standing rigging. You can find them by running a loose rag up the rigging, which will snag on any broken ends. Cracked swages are an indicator for immediate replacement. Contact a rigger if you suspect a problem. Running rigging also needs to be looked at - especially the roller furling line.
• Trailers: Inspect bearings and ensure they are well packed with grease. Hydraulic brake reservoirs should be full. Lastly, check the tires for wear and ensure lugs are tight.
  
  BoatU.S. - Boat Owners Association of The United States - is the nation's leading advocate for recreational boaters providing its 650,000 members with a wide array of consumer services. For membership information visit http://www.BoatUS.com or call 800-395-2628.

On-the-water breakdowns, running aground or other mishaps can ruin a day of boating or fishing fun. But when the towboat arrives on the scene, do you know if the service is a "tow" or a "salvage" job? If you're ever in doubt, the safest bet is to ask the towboat crew. That's because there could be a big difference in the cost of each service, and it also determines who pays the bill, says Boat Owners Association of The United States (BoatU.S.). While there is sometimes a fine line between the towing and salvage, there are a few clear indicators that point to each. "Salvage requires the existence of 'peril' to the distressed vessel or persons aboard, or peril to the rescue boat and its crew, or the marine environment," said Vice President of BoatU.S. Towing Services Jerry Cardarelli. Historically and legally, salvage is any voluntary and successful rescue of a boat, its cargo, and/or passengers from peril at sea.

Today that definition includes the successful avoidance of damage to a legally protected marine environment. Vessels hard aground, on rocks, taking on water or sunk are salvage, as are collisions, fires, breakaways or other types of immediate danger. Salvage also comes into play when specialized equipment such as pumps, air bags, or divers are called for - even if the boat is at the dock. All TowBoatU.S. and Vessel Assist companies are committed to informing the owner of a boat - before beginning any work - if the procedure will be declared salvage. If the owner is not on board or the conditions are so perilous and the rescue of the boat requires immediate action, they'll be notified as soon as possible after saving the boat. "On the other hand, when there is very little or no peril or damage to the vessel - you have a towing situation," said Cardarelli. "A typical example is when you run out of gas or have a dead battery, and have subsequently dropped anchor to await for assistance. Waters are calm, you're no threat to navigation, your crew and boat are fine and there's no peril to those on the response boat." Of all of the thousands of requests for assistance made each year by boaters to BoatU.S. 24-hour Dispatch Centers, 98% are for routine towing services.

When it comes to soft ungroundings, BoatU.S. members enjoy a special agreement with the TowBoatU.S. and Vessel Assist on-the-water towing fleets which ensures that if there is little peril and no damage to the BoatU.S. member's disabled boat, and only one towboat is needed to remove the softly grounded vessel from a shoal, it's a simple towing job. Other commercial towing companies may or may not honor this agreement. The Costs Nationwide, towing and soft ungrounding costs average about $600 and $800 respectively. These are either paid by an annual towing service plan or out-of-pocket by the boater. Salvage cases are usually covered by insurance - or out-of-pocket if self-insured - and are much more expensive than a tow.

For recreational boaters, a simple fall overboard is the number one boating accident “event” that leads to the most fatalities. The U.S. Coast Guard reports that in 2006, 275 persons died in 721 boating accidents that began with or involved a fall overboard. While some of these accidents involved other factors, being able to quickly get back in the boat–without help–isn’t easy as a BoatU.S. Foundation test of 11 portable boarding ladders recently found. “A fall into the water can turn into a life-threatening situation very quickly,” said BoatU.S. Foundation President Ruth Wood, “It doesn’t take long for exhaustion or hypothermia to drain the life out of you. Boaters and anglers need to be prepared, especially if you are alone. It can happen to you.” While many larger boats have built-in boarding ladders, the Foundation tested portable models on a 17-foot Boston Whaler, 14-foot Jon boat, and 12-foot rigid-hull inflatable.

What follows are five important tips that will help ensure a fall overboard doesn’t become tragic. To see a complete report on the tests as well as video of the ladders in action that will help you select the right one for your boat, go to http://www.BoatUS.com/Foundation

1. Wear your life jacket. All of the BoatU.S. volunteers participating in the testing program wore a life jacket–before they voluntarily went over the side. All agreed that a fully clothed adult with no buoyancy would have difficulties attempting to get back aboard using any type of ladder.

2. You don’t need to spend lots of money for a functional boarding ladder. Testers found an affordable model fashioned from four-inch wide yellow webbing proved best. Simplicity also ruled the day as the highest-ranked ladders all had fewer than three steps. The ideal ladder length, measured from the water’s surface to the bottom rung, averaged 20 inches.

3. Some ladders work better with certain types of boats. Hard sides or soft? Low or high freeboard? Depending on a boat’s construction or deck layout, most ladders performed well with one particular kind of vessel, and did poorly with others. It’s important to match the ladder to the boat.

4. Before you head out, your boarding ladder needs to be positioned so it can be reached from the water. Also, attaching the ladder to the wrong spot on a narrow, lightweight boat can increase the chance of capsizing, especially if there is wave action.

5. Practice is a must. Many ladders were difficult to use on the first try. Take the time on a warm, sunny day to fine tune any adjustments, get in the water and use the ladder. Some ladders threw testers off-balance when weight was placed on them, causing the device to swing underneath the boat. Only practice solved this problem.

The BoatU.S. Foundation for Boating Safety and Clean Water is a national 501(c)(3) nonprofit education and research organization primarily funded by the voluntary contributions of the 650,000 members of BoatU.S. The Foundation operates more than a dozen programs including the only accredited, free, online general boating safety course, a low-cost EPIRB rental program, the “Help Stop the Drops” national clean fueling campaign, and a free kid’s Life Jacket Loaner Program. It has awarded hundreds of thousands of dollars in grants for nonprofit groups for boating safety and environmental projects.

Boating with young children isn’t really all that different from putting them in the car and going out to the playground or swim park. You must have a process for preparing, traveling and enjoying your destination. You must use safety gear and take precautions. And you must be vigilant while still giving them their own space to operate and learn. The most important thing for you to have is a positive attitude. Before your child ever sets foot onboard you need to “childproof” it, just as you would if you were visiting the home of someone who is childless: basically, stow everything that’s breakable or dangerous. Winches, windlasses, ropes, gear boxes, ground tackle and other topside equipment should be out of reach, battened or otherwise secured.

Make sure all safety gear, such as EPIRBS, flares, and flare guns, are up out of a child’s reach—but never locked away—just in case you need them. Areas where ropes and halyards are located should be off limits, since it’s easy to trip or to get a foot or hand wrapped up or caught. Investing in a good lifejacket or life vest with an age-appropriate design is a must. Look for one with a collar that turns the child face up in the water. Look for strong waist and crotch straps, and a handle on the collar. It should have a plastic safety whistle and you should practice your toddler in its use. (Take the child with you when you buy the lifejacket; it will help with sizing and it will get them involved.) That said, have a realistic approach to safety. They’re still the same kids you have at home, so expect the same behavior.

Establish clear, enforceable rules and set boundaries for your kids. They need to be safe, but they also need to have a good time so that they will want to share boating with you in the future. From here on out, making the trip enjoyable is just "Parenting 101." • Bring lots of fluids, particularly water and fruit juices. Remember baby bottles and/or sippy cups, and extras, just in case. • Pack snacks that are not too salty or too sweet. Fruits and granola bars are great. Bring some not-too-salty crackers or, better yet, ginger snap cookies, which can help settle queasy stomachs. Ginger ale is good for this, too. • Your diaper bag (or substitute a daypack) is a must. Pretty much you want to bring one extra of everything you’d normally carry: a full change of clothes, diapers, any lotions or creams, and wipes—bring plenty of those. They’re great onboard for everything, since freshwater is limited. Bring plastic bags to keep wet things away from dry things. Make sure you bring a hat, sunscreen and sunglasses, as well as a jacket in case it turns cool.

ou’ll probably also want to stash a rain poncho aboard. • Remember that your young one may not be riveted by the waterfront mansions or sunset like you are. Bring crayons and drawing paper, and toys that can take the dampness. Bath toys are excellent choices, as are bathtub books, which fare better than paper books.

Few boat owners or anglers with fishing boats think about their boat trailers until something goes wrong. But this out-of-sight, out-of-mind attitude unfortunately leads to problems that a little planning and attention could have helped prevent. Mike Pellerin, director of BoatU.S. Angler, which offers both on-the-water and on-the-road assistance to its members, says that even the best boat trailers, without regular maintenance, may develop problems due to the stresses caused by rough roads and owner neglect. In 2007, the BoatU.S. 24-hour dispatch centers reported the top five reasons for boat trailer service calls and their frequency of occurrence: · Flat tires (44%) · Bearing problems (20%) · Axle problems (14%) · Suspension problems (9%) · Tongue problems (5%) Does this mean today’s boat trailers aren’t well made? “Boat trailers are better than ever,” said Pellerin. “However, because they are constructed so well, boat owners tend to overlook things such as checking tires for wear and forgetting to grease wheel bearings. Driving over the unavoidable rough patches and potholes contributes to early trailer or tire failure.” Many national roadside assistance clubs do a great job helping stranded motorists. But when it comes to boat trailer breakdowns, boaters need to know that their “auto” club may not be their best option because boat trailer assistance often isn’t included. When that happens, boats are left stranded on the side of the highway while their owners seek help. However, most such auto/RV clubs will provide boat trailer assistance for a small additional premium. So will most auto/RV insurance providers, as well as the four major marine emergency/tow programs from BoatU.S., Sea Tow, Vessel Assist, and NBOA. A little extra paid now can prevent a huge expense and a whole lot of hassle later. Whether you buy an assistance program or not, the best thing to do is provide regular inspection and maintenance of your trailer just like you do your auto and other vehicles. From BoatU.S. www.boatus.com

It was more than 10 years ago when I bought my first boat in Florida. A good friend, who's been guiding out of Fort Myers for many years, found it for me. "It's a real plain-jane," he said, "but it'll get you around to learn the water and you'll never get hurt ‘cause it doesn't go fast enough. Besides, you'll always get your money out of it." Know what? He was right on all counts. Mostly because I was just smart enough to ask for advice. Such as: "Dave, how much anchor line should I have?" "Oh, 200 feet," he immediately replied. "Really," I said, chuckling. "How much anchor line should I have." Dead serious he said, "Oh, about 200 feet. See, there were these guys in a small boat like yours who were fishing in the Gulf. When it was time to come home they couldn't get the motor started and they were in water too deep for their short anchor line. "Four days later they washed up some place in Mexico." Oh! I used that little boat for four years. I drove it all over Charlotte Harbor, went night Snooking, and explored waaaay up the Myakka River amid gators that were positively scary. And I learned safe boating as well as where to fish.

What I was told many years ago about wading unfamiliar Trout streams is just as true for novice boaters: "When in doubt—don't." But, common sense is in short supply sometimes. During the years since my indoctrination to south Florida flats and backcountry fishing I managed to acquire a Captain's license. I've guided an awful lot of anglers on my boat, of course, but also give "lessons" to newbies on their own boats. Recently, one of them confidently assured me that he didn't need an anchor "because I just drift the flats." "Well," I said, "let me tell you about a time when the ignition switch on my boat decided to die just when the winds started blowing 25 and I was heading aground on Long Bar up in Sarasota Bay. "I had two clients aboard, and it wasn't looking good. I dropped anchor as soon as I cleared the channel, and a friend came to my rescue. I transferred my clients to his boat and he towed me back to the 10th Street ramp.